Awe in a Fur Coat, St Marks, Venice Italy

Characters

I don’t focus enough in my travel work on people. I always think I will offend, even though someone is lounging in the sun in public. There are, occasionally, characters who’s draw is too powerful for even me to resist. This woman was one of them. She seemed like she belonged in Venice, and was decked in an outfit most queer. It was not her attire that drew my attention, but the way in which she viewed her world.

She walked hurriedly as if unaware of anything or anyone, then suddenly would stop, and stare intently at some part of the Basilica di San Marco. She would stand for an eternity staring at one tiny facet of the ocean of art that IS the Basilica as if drinking in only one mosaic at a time was all her soul could stand. Today she would KNOW another piece of one of the most beautiful churches in the entire world world and perhaps in a lifetime, she would be able to piece together in her heart one of our greatest human triumphs.

I don’t know if this story is true, I never spoke to her, but I felt it when I saw her and I admire her awe.

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Gondolas of the Venice Grand Canal at Sunset

Perfect Moments

It was January on the water, I had a respiratory infection, and the sea air seemd to do me no more good then it did for Gustav von Aschenbach in the novel Death in Venice. I actually spend a good deal of time later this night contemplating if my breathing got worse, how would I get to a doctor…does a water ambulance come and take you to the hospital? Luckily, my problems were run of the mill sick, nothing like the plague, but you can escape that history either when you visit Venice.

All of these problems and dark thoughts one would think could drag down anyone’s spirits, but not me…not in Venice. It is a jewel, one that specifically requires blinders, but even the most amazing gemstones have flaws. The people who built this city undoubtedly understood the sea, its power and majesty. They must have also been a bit mad, but standing on that pier looking at the sunset, I believe we have the same heart.

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A Desperate View of the Doge’s Palace in Venice, Italy

Choosing Photos

I find myself wondering as I type this, what draws me to a particular photo to work on it. There may be one singular element that triggers interest for me. Often, there are just photos I know will do well with my particular process, today’s photo wasn’t one of them. Today, I was intrigued by two things in this photo. One was how I caught the smallest sliver of the setting sun behind the bridge. The other, and most important element was the ghosted people along the corridor by the Doge’s Palace. The vantage point of this shot is from the front of the Venetian Prison and something about those distant uncaring ghosts seemed perfect to me.

Photo Technical Info

  • Aperture: ƒ/4
  • Camera: Canon EOS 5D Mark II
  • Taken: 25 January, 2014
  • Focal length: 27mm
  • ISO: 400
  • Location: 45° 26.0237′ 0″ N 12° 20.4647′ 0″ E
  • Shutter speed: 10s
  • Title: A Desperate View of the Doge's Palace in Venice, Italy

Sunshine on the Grand Canal in Venice, Italy

Late Morning in Venice

I got up really early on a rainy morning in Venice to shoot St Mark’s Square when it was devoid of people. I was sick with my general post travel lung disease. I had returned home from Oahu, worked one day, then flew to Milan where I took the train to Venice. Once the sun came up, I found why many consider Venice one of the most beautiful cities in the world. This view is looking across the Grand Canal, the Doge’s Palace is to my back, I can’t think of a more wonderful way to start a sick day. If you go, just look out for the tourists!

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The Ossuary of San Bernardino in Milan, Italy

Stunned Meditation

My visit to the Ossuary of San Bernardino in Milan was one of the most profoundly impactful of my life. I often steer clear of places where large numbers of human remains have been laid (visibly) to rest. My presence somehow seems disrespectful as I and others gawk in our tourist’s stupor, so acutely aware of how quickly our vacation is slipping away. Truth be told, I have always been a bit freaked out by the idea as well. I have always been a bit…sensitive to things many others don’t seem to pick up on. I’m not talking about some sort of Shirley MacLaine, out-of-body experience, but I also don’t so much discount people and their other-worldly experiences.

When I entered the small chapel, I was overwhelmed. It’s hard to describe what went on there. Mostly it was quiet. I sat down. Many people came and went, some were solemn, some giggled, some prayed. I sat there for perhaps an hour and a half before I even realized what had happened. Thousands upon thousands of hollow, vacant eyes stare down at you, no matter where you are. The gaze of the dead is inescapable, it closes in on you and somehow they WERE ACTUALLY watching me. I could feel those eyes penetrate to my very soul, my walls were no use in this place. The interesting thing was, how un-judged I felt…and that feeling was very specific.

Two things permeate the space; that eternal gaze of the dead and the sacred heart. Both of these overwhelm. The message is clear to Catholics, but it had a different call for me. Life is so very, very short. Find your heart Brian, before it’s too late.

The people in the Ossuary didn’t die especially good deaths, nor were they in many cases good people, but I so desperately hope they have found peace.

Photo Technical Info

  • Aperture: ƒ/8
  • Camera: Canon EOS 5D Mark II
  • Taken: 4 April, 2014
  • Focal length: 16mm
  • ISO: 100
  • Location: 45° 27.7483′ 0″ N 9° 11.7518′ 0″ E
  • Shutter speed: 3.2s
  • Title: The Ossuary of San Bernardino alle Ossa in Milan, Italy

Walking the Roof of Il Duomo at Sunset

Il Duomo at Sunset

I suppose it depends on the time of year you go, but I went to the room if Milan’s major Cathedral, I stayed up there for a long time. It neared sunset when the guards ran the last of us off and followed us out. It was peaceful up there and not terribly crowded. There is a something special about getting to wander the roof of such and old and central building like Il Duomo. The history of European cities can often be paralleled to the history of their main Church. This is perhaps the single most important structure in the entire city, and I spent the evening in the heavens.

Old Processes

At times I miss the darkroom. The smell of fixer is something you don’t forget. The chemistry one of the things that originally drew me to photography. I found never-ending joy in trying to find new and creative ways to splatter my chemicals to get an uneven result. Eyedroppers, spray bottles, tossing chemicals…I was manipulating WAY before I found Photoshop. I used quite a few processes to get this result today, but I was going for a modern day wet-plate look. How do you think I did?

Photo Technical Info

  • Aperture: ƒ/8
  • Camera: Canon EOS 5D Mark II
  • Taken: 5 April, 2014
  • Focal length: 32mm
  • ISO: 100
  • Shutter speed: 1/250s
  • Title: Walking the Roof of Il Duomo at Sunset

View of Lake Como from Villa Monastero

Never a More Beautiful Place

I have been a good deal of places over the last few years, and I have to say the Lake Como region of Italy is one of the most beautiful places in the world. Perhaps it was the lucky weather or the magical smell of the blooming wisteria that seemed to be all around. I spent my time on the lake visiting small villages/towns and the villa’s that were located there. This particular place was called Villa Monastero and while it didn’t have the financing that Villa Balbianello had, its length with super impressive!

The grounds occupy a narrow strip of land that follows the coast of the city of Varenna. I walked for 45 minutes (slowly mind you) before I hit a gate and could go no further. I entered the gates only an hour before closing time and had to walk back at a VERY fast rate to make it there before getting locked in an Italian Villa for the night. On second thought, perhaps I had the wrong idea! This photo is of one of the multitude of awesome views of Lake Como in the city of Varenna, Italy.

Photo Technical Info

  • Aperture: ƒ/8
  • Camera: Canon EOS 5D Mark II
  • Taken: 6 April, 2014
  • Focal length: 32mm
  • ISO: 500
  • Location: 46° 0.455′ 0″ N 9° 17.269′ 0″ E
  • Shutter speed: 1/2000s
  • Title: View of Lake Como from Villa Monastero

Entrance to the Crypts of Il Duomo

Closed Entrance

This entrance to the lower levels of Il Duomo in Milan, Italy was closed. There seemed to be several entrances that were not open to the public. The main public stairs to the crypts of two Saints were around the corner and quite busy. I wondered if people visiting knew where they were headed and the stories of the men who’s tombs we visited. I wonder this because my particular knowledge of European Saints is a bit limited, but I tend to follow where groups of people are headed to see what I can see. I wonder how many people go with purpose and how many go with the flow, both in life and in visiting the dead.

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Outside the Walls of Santa Maria delle Grazie in Milan, Italy

Visiting The Last Supper

On my last visit to Milan, I went to Santa Maria della Grazie, the church where DaVinci painted The Last Supper. I was surprised by its impact, both historically and the almost wonderfully horrific deterioration it faces. I wonder if Leonardo knew people would be viewing this work for over 500 years. He was going for more detail and luminosity then can be achieved with normal wet fresco techniques and instead painted on a dry wall. It isn’t really a fresco, and given your perspective, the ages have not been kind. I have always wondered how much of this was intended and how much was simply an experiment in technique. Was Leonardo chuckling to himself the entire time I painted the last supper? Is there hidden meaning, in the fight to keep everything from falling apart…something part of a grander design?

The painting is on one wall of the dining hall of the monastery. You only get 15 minutes with the work (and the Crucifixion on the opposite wall by Giovanni Donato da Montorfano). Security is TIGHT…I have never been anywhere with multiple automatic man traps. At your allotted time, you enter and get locked in, then another door opens, you move to the next trap and get locked in. Eventually the dining hall is opened and your small group is allowed inside (no photography of course due to the delicate nature of the art). Fifteen minutes was not enough time for me…I could have stayed and stared and felt much longer.

Walking the parameter

Walking to the metro, I walked around the perimeter walls of the monastery. This shot is from the street outside one of the courtyards.

Photo Technical Info

  • Aperture: ƒ/8
  • Camera: Canon EOS 5D Mark II
  • Taken: 5 April, 2014
  • Focal length: 19mm
  • ISO: 500
  • Location: 45° 27.9857′ 0″ N 9° 10.2992′ 0″ E
  • Shutter speed: 1/2000s
  • Title: Outside the walls of Santa Maria delle Grazie in Milan, Italy

Old Bicycle on the Streets of Milan, Italy

Thinking about Old Bicycles

Bicycles are all over Milan. The tourists never seem to be riding them, but the locals use them to speed past all the transient gawkers that visit their beloved city. I was surprised at all the bikes I saw and by their relatively old ages. I for some reason never took the ultra fashionable Milanese to use this mode of transport. If they did, I feel like any bicycle they SHOULD be riding must be embroidered with the LV logo.

This old bicycle stopped me for two reasons. First, it’s old, secured with an old chain and a much newer lock. The texture of the building and the rusty security gate on the window were the other. Throw in a harsh shadow, the wonderfully textured sidewalk and the simplicity, you have photo magic! Scott Kelby said something recently in a random video (and I am wildly paraphrasing)…if something stops you, there is something there. Work the scene! I have been trying to keep this in mind as I travel all over. I am working on paying attention to things that stop me and asking why. There is beauty all around and sometimes it’s nice to simply pay attention.

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